There are many fantastic Devon days out, but Dartmouth has to be one of my favourites. From taking your car across the River Dart on the ferry from Kingswear to exploring the historic town itself, there is something about Dartmouth that makes every visit feel special.
We have been many times over the years, sometimes making a full day of the journey from Exeter and stopping in Brixham for breakfast along the way. On other occasions we have continued beyond Dartmouth to Blackpool Sands, which I think is one of the nicest beaches in England. This time, however, we did something different. We stayed overnight, experienced the town after dark and took a boat trip along the River Dart to Dittisham the next day. This gave us a different perspective on a place we thought we already knew pretty well.
Taking the ferry from Kingswear to Dartmouth
For me, part of the enjoyment of visiting Dartmouth is getting there. Driving down from Exeter, you can go via Totnes, but I recommend going by Kingswear where you can and cross the River Dart in your car, via the ferry. It isn’t a long crossing, but it makes the trip more of an adventure, particularly if you are taking somebody who hasn’t experienced it before. The view as you approach the town is spectacular, with Dartmouth rising from the waterfront and the river busy with boats and yachts. Then you drive off the ferry and straight into town.
Discovering Dartmouth after dark
We have visited Dartmouth many times, but on our latest trip we arrived in the evening. I had never really experienced Dartmouth at night before and it has a completely different atmosphere. Things slow down and the lights reflecting on the water make you appreciate the town in a new way.
We stayed in the Captain’s Cabin at Alf’s Rooms, above the well known Café Alf Resco in Lower Street. It proved to be an ideal base because we were right in the heart of Dartmouth and could enjoy the evening without having to think about driving anywhere afterwards. Staying overnight also removed the pressure to fit everything into a few hours. We could simply enjoy Dartmouth knowing there was another day ahead of us.
Breakfast at Café Alf Resco
The next morning we didn’t have far to go for breakfast. We just headed downstairs to Café Alf Resco. Alf’s has long been a popular Dartmouth breakfast spot and is open seven days a week from 7am until 2pm throughout the year. The café has a quirky, relaxed atmosphere and puts an emphasis on freshly prepared food and local suppliers.
It is also dog friendly, which was important to us because our cockapoo Maizi was travelling with us. She certainly approved. On arrival she was presented with sausage treats, which is probably all the recommendation she needed.
The café is now under new ownership with Andrew Green, his wife Marilize and their daughters, a family run business where you feel genuinely at home and cared for.
As for breakfast, we decided that instead of going for the usual full fry up we would try something different, After all, you can have a full English almost anywhere. I chose eggs Benedict with salmon and hollandaise sauce which was outstanding. My wife’s choice was even more unusual. She had poached turmeric pear with Greek yoghurt, mint and toasted almonds, along with sourdough toast and butter. Both looked great, which naturally meant photographs had to be taken before we could start eating.
From Café Alf Resco to Knead Peace
Andrew has also recently opened Knead Peace, an artisan bakery in Dartmouth, and it was somewhere else we wanted to visit. The story behind it makes the bakery particularly interesting. Knead Peace began as a cookbook project following the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Andrew brought together recipes from bakers and chefs around the world to raise money for the Ukraine Humanitarian Appeal. The project has since developed into a permanent bakery in Dartmouth.
Knead Peace isn’t just somewhere to buy bread and pastries either. The bakery runs hands on baking classes and events, including sessions led by Andrew and visiting bakers. It is an interesting new addition to Dartmouth and another example of why it is worth wandering away from the waterfront and discovering the independent businesses around town.
For anyone who loves proper bread, it is difficult to walk out empty handed. We bought two sourdough loaves, including one covered in sesame seeds, and there was plenty more that caught our eye. The pecan nut pie looked amazing, along with a tempting selection of other baked treats.
Seeing Dartmouth from the River Dart
One of the best decisions we made on this trip was taking the ferry from Dartmouth to Dittisham. Our return fare with Dittisham Ferries was £14 and I thought it was well worth it. Seeing Dartmouth from the river is a very different experience. The journey takes you past all kinds of boats and yachts and gives you the opportunity to simply sit back and take in the scenery.
If, like me, you enjoy taking photographs, there is plenty to point your camera at. The journey also gives you a better sense of how much the River Dart defines Dartmouth. You see the town in the distance, the surrounding countryside and all the activity on the water in between.
A stop at Dittisham
The ferry gave us the opportunity to spend some time in Dittisham. We stopped at the Anchorstone Café, where I had a Luscombe bubbly elderflower. Sitting beside the river with a cold drink and enjoying the surroundings is my idea of taking things at the right pace.
Then there was the return journey to Dartmouth, giving us another opportunity to enjoy the scenery from the water. This was definitely one of the highlights of the visit.
One of Devon’s treasures
I’ve lived in Devon for many years and there are places I never seem to tire of visiting. Dartmouth is one of them. This latest trip showed us a side of the town we hadn’t experienced before. Staying overnight meant discovering Dartmouth after dark, waking up above one of its best known cafés and having the time to explore the River Dart by boat.
Add an unusual breakfast, Maizi getting thoroughly spoilt, a visit to a new artisan bakery and an afternoon trip to Dittisham and it became much more than another visit to a familiar place. For anyone considering their next Devon day out, try Dartmouth from the water and, if you have the opportunity, stay overnight. You might find, like us, that one visit is never quite enough.
Al's Travel Blog
Having lived in Exeter for several years photo journalist, Al Gibson has spent much time exploring the beautiful countryside and neighbouring towns and villages and loves to write about Devon Days Out and share his photos of picturesque places.
